
Sunday dawned bright and sky-blue, and decided that she wanted to whisk me away into the pages of history. There are untold cultural riches, she whispered, stories in stone that you’ve never seen before, and a way of life that’s long forgotten.
And so I found myself on the way to Lepakshi – a small temple town on the border of Andhra Pradesh. Craggy mountains abound on the way, and a massive arched entrance welcomes people to the place that’s home to a gorgeous, albeit fast-crumbling, 15th century Virabhadraswamy temple.

Stepping through the looming doorway, I was instantly enveloped by the ghosts of a historic period that must have been aesthetically rich – typical carvings of lions, horses, and apsaras are given more depth and character through the masonry that created them. The temple stands proud at the center of the stone-walled compound, with a row of Hampi gold-market-like structures running along it. I decided to explore the outside area before venturing in, and found myself fascinated by the uniqueness of the carvings. They’re nothing like the stone carvings I have seen in temples and caves across any of the other historic sites I have visited.

Walking around the back of the temple, I came upon a kalyana mantapa – a space allotted for marriage ceremonies. Despite its dilapidated state, the mantapa is the most impressive part of the temple; stone pillars ornately carved with gods and goddesses surround the central area of the mantapa, simulating the feeling of a marriage ‘blessed by the gods themselves’. A little distance away, a gigantic carving of serpent heads awaits the descent of Lord Vishnu. The contrast of the aged stones against a clear-blue sky dotted with cotton-candy clouds was visually unparalleled.

Inside the temple itself, the visual display is quite the opposite – the ceilings are full of fairly well-preserved murals depicting scenes of hunting, weddings, and visits to the king. Again, the style here was vastly different from any mural paintings I have ever seen. The hall before the deity of the temple is the natya mandira – the space for performance arts. The pillars in the space display careful craftsmanship in the forms of dancers and musicians.

The temple itself is a sanctuary from the outside world, breathing in the surrounding noise and breathing out a comfortable silence. The cool stone slabs offer the perfect reprieve from a burning afternoon sun.

As I sat in the temple and looked around, Sunday evening glided up to me, whispering that it was time to get back to reality. Reluctantly, I big goodbye to the temple priest whom I was just beginning to be friends with and walked away, mentally bookmarking this particular page so I could get back to it whenever I wanted to.

Getting there: Lepakshi is 125 kilometres from Bangalore and easily accessible by road. We went on bikes, but it’s a smooth drive by car as well. The roads are wide and the route, picturesque.
Go if: You don’t have enough time for a weekend getaway, want to explore places around Bangalore, like historic places, temples and stories.
Beautiful pictures and description… loved the mural..! Very candid and easy writing style..
Thank you. :)
Beautiful pics and write-up. The beauty of south indian temples, especially the calm, serene atmosphere around is brilliant. Will go here some day. How old is this temple?
Thanks thanks DJ. :) But evidently the write-up wasn’t all that good if you didn’t remember reading how old the temple was. :P
i was using the mobile then and the pics actually caught all my attention.
My apologies. I beg for Mercy O Nebulous One :D
In that case, you have my unrestrained forgiveness. :D
Reblogged this on raam raam and commented:
A good friend. A good writer. And, now she is bloody getting into a small space that i was a little better than her. Photography. This is not happening at all :)
Thanks for the appreciation and reblogging, Raam. :)
It is a nice place steeped in history. Nice shots!
http://rajniranjandas.blogspot.com
Thanks Niranjan. :)
Ok done, am going.
Go, go. :)
I have been to Lepakshi once, and was completely awed by it. However, I don’t think I explored it in as much detail as you did. :) Lovely account! It is time to go there again, I guess.
BTW, there is a snake temple nearby – we visited that too. Maybe you would be interested? It is located in a place called Vidurashwata.
Hey TGND,
Thanks, and you must revisit. It’s getting hot again, so perhaps pick a cloudy day to go? The drive will be enjoyable then. :)
The Snake Temple sounds interesting. Does it have some history to it? I’d love to go sometime. Want to join me? :)
I’d love to join you!
Not sure if the snake temple has a history. I think it does. Will Wiki it and see.
It’s a date. :P